Quick and easy nightstand

Hey ! This project is about making a nice nightstand very fast in just a few steps.

In order to speed up the work I’ve used prefacbricated  pine wood panels ( 40 cm x 200 cm ). All you have to do it’s just to cut the panels to right lengt and then to assembly the cabinet with some dowels,  most probably the quicked way to join pannels.

Photo 27-08-2016, 13 45 07

Once all the pannels were done, I’ve screwed the drawer hardware (it’s easier at this stage) and glued all toegheter.

I’ll skip the drawer making part, it’s nothing fency about it, I’ve just a standard lock rabbet technique.

Regarding drawers, I’ve payed a special attention to the drawer pulls, I do not like the old fashion traditional pulls so I’ve designed a  new “trendy” drawer pulls. The idea was to have an oval inset which holds the pulls. Precision is very importat at this stage so I’ve used the CNC machine to cut the oval and the pullers as well, but you can use a router for oval and handcut for the pulls.

I’ve very pleased about the result, I think it looks very original !

AFter putting all togheter and applying a couple of varnish the night stand is ready, voila!

Photo 10-09-2016, 08 10 09


Lego (wood) man is back !

Hey Guys ! Kids always likes lego figures so in this post I’ll show you how to build a  “lego man” out of wood. It’s jsut a fun project so I’ve used some leftover pine wood from the shop.

I searched the web to find a right lego man right design  and then printed the 1:1 sketch  to A3 sheet. The ones from below looks quite handy.

lego design

After a fair amount of cutting and sanding I’ve manged to make the all the parts.

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To make the head I’ve rounded a piece of wood on the lathe, then assembled all piece togheter without any glue.

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To mark the eye I’ve used the Laser Engraved with tht rotary support.

… and here we go, the leg man is ready !

Photo 21-11-2016, 19 49 11





Wooden Flower Pots

Hi ! I’m starting the new year with a couple of new projects. The first project from this series is a wooden flower pot. The pot basicaly is a wood bucket made out of 20 pieces of wood sticks. I’ve never made anything similar until now and I really had no idea how to cut the sticks at the right angle, but after a bit of research on youtube I’ve figured out that the technique is similar to barrel manufacturing and the secret lies in a proper jig.

Before jumping to the details let’s recap the theory first.


  • pot diameter = 200 mm
  • pot height = 220m
  • wood sticks no. = 20 pieces


  • wood sticks width = Diameter * PI / 20 pieces = 200 * 3.14 = 628 / 20 pieces = 31.4 mm
  • wood sticks angle = 360 degree / 20 / 2 = 18 / 2  = 9 degree  ( equivalent with 81 degree on the table saw)

Step 1 – preparing the wood stiks

First of all you have to cut 20 wood sticks at right width ( 31.4 mm)  and length (220 mm).

To ensure the grove for the bottom part I’d cut a ~8mm grove at the end of each wood stick at the same distance. It’s important to make this groves before cutting the wood sticks in angle.


Step 2 – making the Jig

The role if the jig is to help you to cut both sides of the wood stick on the tabble saw. Without this jig there is no way to get it right. The jig has to be precise in order to get accurate result. You need two jigs, one to cut the first side and the second one to cut the other side of each wood stick. The second jig is bit different and taking in account that you already did the cut on other side.


I’ve cut the left side of each sticks with jig1. After I’ve finished all the 20 pieces I’ve fliped over and cut the other side with jig2. To calibrate the angle  (9 degree) at the table saw I’ve used a digital angle measuring tool which can be atatched to the blade.


After all 20 pieces are cut you can move on to the bottom part. The pot is quite small so you can make the bottom from one single pieces of lumber. I’ve cut the circle on the band saw and then rounded  the edge on the lathe.

Step 3 – assembling

I haven’t used any glue just some metal braces in a similar way as it’s used in barrel manufacturing.

…and after a bit of sending the wooden flower pot is ready !







Winter gifts

I’m a bit late with this post, but the truth is that I didn’t have time to write this blog.

These small gifts are very handy and easy to make if you own a laser engraver.

You have to choose carefully the branches, some of them may crack very bad after dries ( e.g. hardwood like cherry, beech…). I’ve picked birch wood for this project, it’s soft wood, looks nice has white bark and never cracks. If you still want to use hard wood make sure the wood is dry enough ( ~ 10-12 % humidity).

After cutting the wood slices you just have to resize the selected image in order to fit your workpiece. I’m using corel draw with laser engraving plugin for editing and engraving.


I’ve used 400 mm /s engraving speed and 30% of the laser power (80W).

And in a few seconds the gifts is ready !


Afer attaching a small string and a wooden ball it looks just amaizing.


Clothes Drying Stand

Hi all! I haven’t posted for a while but now it’s time to get back to work.

This time I’ve made a clothes drying stand out of brich wood. The old one, made from metal pipe has broken so I had to make new one.

You need aporx. 7 meter of 2×4 cm stock. The frame size is 110 x 50 cm and the legs are 115 cm long. The frame joint has to be very strong because there will be lot of presure from the weight of the wet clothes so I ‘ve picked the handcut figner joint to do the job.

When glue the joints make sure to clamp everithing in square.

I’ve applied the same technique to build the two small frames, but for the legs I’ve used a classic tenon and mortis joint.

Once all the pieces were ready I’ve stained the wood and applied 2 coat of polyurethane varnish.


Voala, here we go!  Simple, quick and easy.

Toothbrush support

This project is quick guide for a toothbrush support to hold your toothbrush and toothpaste.  The support consists of a cylindrical wood cup which has an engraved image on the side.

Making the wood cup it’s a basic turning technique on the lathe so I’d rather focus on the CNC engraving part.This is my first CNC project where I’ll try to engrave a vector image to a cylinder using the CNC 4th rotary ax.

First I’ve created a cylinder block on the lathe, then mounted to the CNC chuck to do the engraving. Once this was done, I’ve mounted the  work piece back to the lathe and turned the central hole. It’s simple as that !

Forgot to mention that after the engraving was done I’ve put some dark oak stain over the image which I’ve sanded down later, hopping to have a better contrast of the shape. Unfortunately this was not the case, if you look carefully the stain destroyed a bit image. Anyway overall the support look good and I’ll do it better next time.


…  after a bit of sanding and finishing …

2016-07-05 20.06.28




Iphone Retro Audio Amplifier

This post is quick tutorial describing how to make a retro audio ampifier for you mobile phone. The amplifier is passive so you do not need any electronics just the pice of wood. The project creates a replica of the Amplio product using beech wood instead of bamboo.

The amplifer is made of six 10 mm thick beech lumber layers. Each layers are cut out on the CNC router and then glued toegheter. The hole to fit mobile phone is a bit wider so you can use various mobile devices as long the speacker is at the bottom.

Cutting the layers on the CNC router

To have a perfect cut you need a CNC, otherwise you’ll have to build diferent templates to ensure you can produce equal pieces.

Before jumping to machining the workpiece, let’s take a look at the design.

The design is made in Vectric Aspire and has 6 layers. The first and the middle layers are two-side machined.

Once the design is ready just turn on the router and start the job. If the setup is correct you should end up with the below pieces.

After finishing all the cuts you should have six perfect layers you can glue toegheter.

Once the glue dried apply two coat of varnish and the amplifier is ready to be used.