Garden Sun Lounger

Hi guys, summer is almost here and all you need for your relaxation is a comfortable sunbed to enjoy the sunshine!

In this post I’ll illustrate how to make a foldable sunbed with curved deign for added comfort. The design doesn’t belong to me, I’ve tried to create a replica of the Bentley Garden Wooden Sun Lounger model available for sale on amazon.

I had no details about how to build the foldable mechanism, the legs or what should be the correct sizing for the curve, but after some measurement and prototyping I came up wit the following sketch which finally turned out pretty well.

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The trick to make it foldable is to ensure that both legs are curved and can be folded inside the upper side of the bed. The length of the curved side will indicate the height of the legs which will determine the height of the sunbed.

To make the curved edges I draw the curves using a stick and a rope and then cut out on the bandsaw. The measures for the curved edge are: 100  cm length x 4.5 – 5 cm width x 3.5 cm thick; the curve is 10cm deep in the middle.

To smoothen the edges I’ve used router table with a copy ring and a template. The template is screwed to the bottom of the workpiece so the copy ring will follow the curve ensuring your workpiece will be identical and will have smoothe edges.

The legs were build following a similar procedure. Each pair of leg were joined at middle with a tenon and mortise joint. To make the mortise I’ve used the drill press and a hand chisel.

The frame is ready for a test !

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The hard work is over, only the middle sticks are missing. I’ve needed 26 pieces of 5cm x  70cm x 1.5 cm. After mounting all together the sunbet started to looks like a lounger.

After applying some light oak stain and 2 coat of varnish the result was amazing.

…..and voala….

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Garage Workbench Lamp

In this post I’ll illustrate how to make a lamp for your wood workbench in a few steps. The lamp is only for workshop and it’s built mainly from leftover pine wood.

The most complex part is to make the lampshade, the rest is very basic stuff. To cut the shade I’ve glued together two circles, one with 25 cm and another with 15 cm diameter and turned them on the lathe.

Once the lamp shade was ready, I’ve glued a holder support to the bottom and drilled a hole for the bulb.

I’ll jump to the final product now and  I’ll skip the lamp stand building part because it’s a very basic boring woodworking task.

Here we are, this is the workshop lamp which can be easily fixed in the workbench dongles and rotated in any direction and angle.

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Walnut butcher board

You can find many butcher board on the internet posted all over the places, so I’ve decided that I have to make one as well. Recently I’ve bought some walnut lumber which was just perfect for this job.  I do not really like the convectional / rectangular cutting boards so I’ve designed one with an irregular shape and used the CNC router to perform the cut.

The walnut I’ve used was 15 mm thick and the size of board was roughly  15 cm x 30 cm (incl. the handle).

There is not much to say about this project as the machine does the whole job, so I’ll post a couple of picture from different stages of the process.

I’d like to highlight the fact to pay attention to the right finish. If your cutting will be used in the kitchen your finishing mineral oil must be food safe (non-toxic).

…. and the final product looks like:

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How to make a Kendama

Kendama is an old japanese toy similar to a cup-and-ball game. The principle of these toys are to catch one object with another where both  are joined by a string. The original kendama is made out of hard wood to ensure the ball is heavy enough to provide the right balanace during the game.

The toy has three parts:

  • the main body called ken
  • the middle cone part called sarado
  • the ball called tama

In this post I’ll show you how to turn a kendama using segmented wood on the lathe.

To prepare the segmented wood I’ve glued together 10 piece of 6mm thick ash and walnut slices and let them dry for 24 hours.

The diameter of kendama ball has to be 60 mm, so I’ve turned a 60 mm diameter and 65 mm long cylinder. To turn the ball I’ve used an inexpensive homemade jig made of a large cylinder which has a 60 mm conical hole in the center so it can fit my 60mm cylinder.

Once the cylinder is secured in the jig you have to mark the equator using a compass. This is a key step which will lead you to a perfect sphere so don’t skip it.

Using a bowl gouge chisel round the edges and try to make an “approximate” semi-sphere, then invert the work piece and repeat the step for the other half.

Now that the ball is almost a sphere turn the ball with 90 degrees and ensure the equator line is on the rotation ax. Repeat this step until you reach a perfect sphere.

The ball is ready so let’s move to the rest of the parts.

Making the handle (aka. ken) is plain lathe turning technique, nothing fancy.

The middle part is easy as well, just pay attention to the right sizing. You need to have one “small” and one “big cup”.

After assembling all  the pieces the Kendama is ready !

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Amazing wood cup pads

Hi !

Back in December I’ve bought my first CNC machine and I’m very product to publish this post to show what I’ve realized until now. I’m new to the CNC word so it took a while to get familiar with the basics.

Introduction to the CNC world

Before I jump to the project I’d like to write a few words about the CNC.

For those who has no idea about what is a CNC here is a short description:

The CNC (Computer Numerical Control) is one in which functions and motions of a machine tool are controlled by a computer software.

My CNC is Chinese model, CNC 6040Z-S80 with 4 axis. This is not a professional machine but until now I’m quite impressed about its performance and accuracy.


The cup pad project

In this project I’ll illustrate how to create engraved wood cup pads. The design is created in a CAD soft which then is converted into a CNC machine language, called G-code. The G-code is  processed by Mach3 software which commands the CNC controller to executes the cuts.

For the stock material I’ve used 12cm wide and 8mm thick beech wood left over from my coffee table project.

 Step1: CAD design

I’m using Vectric Aspire 8 CAD software to create the design. After setting up the work piece size I’ve drawn a 10 cm diameter circle followed by the smaller inner circle, the text and image. The image has to be vector image otherwise the machine will not be able to perform the cut. I’ve took the image from google (“linear drawing” filter must be on) then converted it to vector in Aspire.


Step2: Execution

In term of execution, there is not much to say. Just secure the work piece and run the software to perform the cuts.

After rounding the edges and sanding, I’ve applied two coats of danish finishing oil.


Here we are, the pads are ready.

PS: in case if your are interested in the CAD or G-code files, just drop me a not, I’m happy to share…


Living Room Coffee Table

Hello everyone!

I’ve been a bit lazy in the new year and I haven’t posted any new article since December. The truth is that I’ve been working on multiple projects in parallel and I had to wait to finish all of them to put together the posts.

This post is about a coffee table for the living room made out of hard wood (beech). I’ve never built a table, not event from soft wood, so it’s was quite a bit of challenge to work with hard wood.

I had some beech lumber in the workshop so it was just perfect for this job.

stock material

Table Specification:  L x W x H: 140 cm x 75 cm x 50 cm.

Making the table top

To make the table top I’ve used 1.8 cm thick lumbers and glued them with a tongue and groove joint. The key is to press them very hard while the glue dries.

Once the top was ready I focused on the table margins. The margins were 3.5 – 4 cm thick to create the illusion that the entire top is thick and massive.

To mount the margins I’ve did a groove of a 1.8 cm depth, this way I could easily glue everything together.

To finish the top, I’ve did repeated sanding with different grits: 60 , 80, 100 , 120.

I’ve started with the belt-sander  and finished with the random orbit sander to obtain a clean and smooth finish.

 Making the table legs

The table is quite short (~50 cm) so the legs so don’t need any bottom reinforcement. I’ve decided to make some rectangle legs opposed to the rounded legs, it gives a modern look.

To join the legs a I’ve made a frame using mortise and tenon joint. I’ve my pantorouter (How to build a wood pantorouter) to cut the tenon and mortise.

Once the tenon and mortise slots were cut I’ve glued them together in two steps for a  better result. It’s important to check the square before securing the glue pieces.

Finishing the table

We are at the finishing phase, both the top and the legs are ready. The next step is to stain the wood an apply 3 coat of varnish.

Staining the table:

After applying the varnish:

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… and here we are, the table is living room and ready to be used  !

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Garage tool cabinet

This post illustrates how to build a cabinet with 7 drawers to holds your tools in the garage. However this is not an indoor project, I’ve tried to use different joint techniques to practice the joinery.

I had some leftover pine wood in the garage corner which was just perfect for this job. The idea behind the cabinet was to build a pine wood frame and to use some 6 mm MDF for the sides and the back.

To build the frame I’ve decided to try out the below joinery:

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To get to this, first I did the dowetail joinery using and dowetail template followed by the tenon and mortise joint using my custom-made pantorouter (more details can be found here).

After finishing all pieces I’ve got everything ready to be assembled for the frame. But, before gluing the frame, I’ve cut a grove on the router table to lock the 6 mm MDF sides. This way the MDF will be secured inside the frame without the need of nails or screws.

Building the drawers

To build the drawers I’ve picked to use lap joint. I’ve never tried this type of joint before so it was just a good opportunity to exercise. I’ve already got from a older project the router jig, so I just had to use it.

To attach the bottom of the drawers I’ve cut a 3 mm grove on the circular saw table to accommodate a 3 mm thick MDF.

For the drawer pulls I’ve decided to make something quick so I’ve used a cove router bit to cut a concave edge then I’ve cut it ~10 cm length.

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Now, that all bits  are ready we can glue toegheter all the pieces.

I’ve almost forgot one important part ! I decided not to use any hardware because it’s expensive and probably not worth to invest to buy 7 sliders hardware in a garage cabinet. To build the drawer slider I’ve followed the tongue and groove joint principle so I’ve cut a groove on each side and mounted the “tongue” to the frame.

We are done! This is the final product. I hope you’ve found it useful.

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